A Travellerspoint blog

January 2006

Ho Chi Minh City and Southern Vietnam

Ho Chi Minh City and Southern Vietnam

Ok, so this blog has been a while coming. Mainly due to me not being allowed to upload my photos whilst in Vietnam.

We arrived in Vietnam, what seems like a long time ago, travelling by boat from Phnom Penh - a spectacular journey - and arriving without incident in the Delta. Our original plan from there was to stay in the Delta for a while, but we decided to head straight for Ho Chi Minh City - the locals still call it Saigon at times, but it was considered to have been given a new start once the fighting ended so they renamed it in honour of their leader. By the time we arrived, we were so tired that we checked into the first hotel we found - that was a mistake, and we moved onto a much nicer Guesthouse first thing the next day.

Following the usual routine on arriving in a new city, we set off to amble through the streets, getting a good feel for the place, and seeing as many sites as possible. Before I get onto the sites, I'm going to get back onto traffic. Now, I think Thailand may still be the worst, purely because there's more of it. But, in Vietnam there seems to be a continual game of 'Chicken' going on! The lights (they have them, and to my surprise obey them most of the time), but come the green light and it's like Carmageddon out there! Now, imagine trying to cross that... It took us 5 minutes at one point before we felt it safe enough to go!

Back to wandering the streets. Out first stop was the War Remnants Museum, featuring some of the vehicles involved in the American war, and focusing heavily on the photographers and the effects of Agent Orange. Seeing what that chemical has done to the people and countryside is frightening, and realising how many it affected is just unthinkable. Speaking to some of the Vietnamese people, you realise they'd either been directly affected, or have a direct relation who has. The photographers' stories were amazing, seeing the shots they took, on occassions where their camera had saved them, and on others, were it had been their undoing. The machinery was also largely in good condition, even the planes that had been shot down.

In the centre of town, we came across Notre Dame Cathedral - yes, there is one in Paris too. Wandering the streets for a few more hours, we settled on top of the Majestic hotel to watch the world go by with a beer or 3. This really is a great way to pass a few hours, and get some colour in my case, and I can see why travel writers enjoy it so much. We sat slack jawed, whilst the madness on the roads continued, and the ferries did piroettes in the river for no reason other than to keep the timing correct between the 2 boats. Each ferry also delivered another load of scooters onto the already heaving roads.

I'm not normally one for organised tours, but it seemed like the best way to get the most out of the Delta. On that trip, we were taken through a floating market, a rice paper and Coconut Candy factory - fresh coconut candy is delicious! Taken for a fantastic fresh water fish lunch and cycle round a village (on a bike equivalent to a BMX for me), finishing off with a visit to a brick factory (ok, even though I'm a civil engineer, I could have quite easily skipped that!), and then a local market which sold snakes. Yummy! We also got to try snake wine, which is very similar to Sake in Japan.

We also did a trip around the Cu Chi tunnels to the West of Ho Chi Minh. This tunnel network was constructed and used by the Vietcong during both the French and American wars, and was made up of a network of tunnels some 250km in length. Our guide was a veteran from the war, fighting in the American army telling us the stories of how the VC evaded them for so long using some fairly simple but effective tricks. We also got to see how the VC lived, crafted weapons from US ordnance and survived for so long. Part of the tunnel network still exists, and has been widened and heightened for 'fat westerners' as the guide put it. I also took the opportunity to be slightly childish and fire an M16 rifle on the range. Ok, I'll admit, it was a buzz.

Our next stop up the coast was Mui Ne, which is a quiet beach resort famed for it's place on the Asian Kite Surfing circuit. You can see why! For starters, the beach was golden and the wind and waves just perfect. When we arrived, the sea (and sky) was alive with kite surfers, jumping in and out of the waves. When we hit the beach, the waves were so good, I could've mucked around in them for ages - those who know me, know I'm not so good at sitting around doing nothing on a beach. The food was also superb, and we enjoyed doing nothing so much, that we ended up spending 4 days there. Alright, not strictly nothing. We did swim and go for a cycle along the 20km of coast.

Carrying on to the North, we arrived at Nha Trang where we would be for Tet - Chinese New Year. I'll start by saying that this place is a real tourist trap. Having spent the last few days in a lightly developed area, to suddenly be engulfed by this resort town reminiscent of something on the Med, was quite overwhelming. We had fun in the evenings, but there wasn't a massive amount to do during the day due to the choppy seas, and we had to stay there till after Tet - which as it turned out was a good thing due to the major party atmosphere in the town! Again, the food was excellent, the people we met were all friendly and we did have a great time. Although one barmaid really struggled with my name, and in the end opted for calling me 'Chris' the whole time.

Our one dread was the forthcoming 12 hour bus journey upto Hoi An...

Posted by Glug 05:37 Archived in Vietnam Tagged backpacking Comments (0)

Phnom Penh, Cambodia

Phnom Penh, Cambodia


We arrived in Phnom Penh by bus, but thankfully the road from Siem Reap is tarmac, not dirt track. And the bus was newer, air conditioned, and had more leg space - a good thing when you're 6ft 4! Our friends Niall and Tini travelled with us on this route, and stayed with us for our time there.

Lucky Number 11 Guesthouse on the lake was our chosen home for our 4 day stay. The room was comfortable - and we were getting to like having cold showers all the time. The view from the pier was superb, especially for watching the sunset across the lake. And the food and people were wonderful and helpful in sorting everything out. One thing though, a lot of the guesthouses have bathrooms that feature showers and sinks that drain straight onto the floor - meaning if you not quite with it, you get wet feet or trousers when brushing your teeth or generally using the sink.

Phnom Penh was quite a contrast to Siem Reap, with everywhere being a lot more built up, and all the roads heaving with bikes and street sellers. I particularly enjoyed Central Market, a massive domed structure in the centre of town featuring stalls selling everything imaginable at knock-down prices.

We were also starting to learn that there's a few things you need to know about the road system in Phnom Penh in particular, but most of Southeast Asia appears to have variations on this theme:

You can drive both ways down one way streets, on either side of the road. It's your choice.

Roundabouts feature 2 way, no-one has right-of way traffic flows where pedestrians are expected to cross through the middle, not across the peripheral roads.

The bigger the vehicle, the more right of way it has - most people are on scooters.

When passing a vehicle, bib the horn as many times as humanly possible, often to the point the poor thing is giving up. And the bigger the vehicle the bigger the horn - ear damaging when riding on a open sided tuk-tuk!

You turn left by driving into the oncoming taffic till someone stops.

You cross the road by doing something akin to Marla Singer in Fight Club, by wandering into the traffic making everyone swerve round you. Large vehicles provide good cover for this dangerous manouevre!

Traffic lights are optional.

As are headlights at night!

Needless to say, we didn't attempt to drive on these roads!

In the south of the city, there's the S21 Genocide Museum, which is the original school where the Khmer Rouge tortured and murdered thousands of men, women and children wiping out whole families in the process. It was a very sobering and shocking site, made worse by not really knowing it had happened before we went there! More reading will be required to fully understand what went on.

Some 15km outside of town - about 40 minutes on the bumpy roads in a tuk-tuk - is the killing fields, where thousands of the victims were executed and buried. The site now features the open holes, and a memorial containing the skulls of around 8,000 of the victims.

I also took to my usual habit of wandering around the streets randomly. I find this a great way of seeing places, and finding things that you wouldn't otherwise find in the guidebook, such as the rollerink and fairground tucked away to the South. I don't think the locals were used to seeing a Westerner wandering the streets as I was, as most tourists seem to stick to certain areas. It was nice as people would say hello to you - including the slightly annoying scooter taxis that seemed baffled by me wanting to actually walk instead of riding a bike!

We also sampled the nightlife, starting off with some friends in the Guesthouse, and then moving onto Heart of Darkness - which, believe it or not, is not a goth club! It featured cheesy music, locals hustling the tourists on the pool table, and the seemingly obligatory dirty old men. But, we did have a good laugh, particularly when Niall did a cartwheel on the stage which involved him finishing off planted in the middle of a nearby table, and me trying to persuade the bouncers that despite his somewhat compromised position and inability to talk or walk, that he was infact, not drunk.

Phnom Penh was a wonderful place to and I'm glad we got the chance to meet the lovely people that live there. Our one regret on leaving for Vietnam was that we didn't spend longer there, or visit Sihanoukville (a beach resort to the South), which is a favourite with the locals!

Posted by Glug 05:36 Archived in Cambodia Tagged backpacking Comments (0)

Siem Reap and Angkor, Cambodia

Visiting the magnificent temples of Angkor, we discovered a whole new world.

sunny 30 °C

We arrived in Cambodia slightly nervous as so many people had told us it was a slightly dodgy place at times. The road in didn't help matters! It had to be on of the worst roads ever 'built', and featured a range of potholes, mud and assorted slow traffic that our driver insisted on vearing across to pass other vehicles. Thankfully, though the bus arrived in one piece - but only just I think! We also heard one horror story from the day before where a bridge had needed repairs, causing the usual 8 hour (sore bum after that), to take 18 hours... Thankfully we missed that!

Our first day, we headed into the temples bristling with excitment after seeing a documentary on Discovery the night before. We had 2 mopeds - the preferred form of 'taxi' here - and after buying our passes - $40 for 3 days - we headed straight to Angkor most famous temple, Angkor Wat. It was amazing actually being there! The place is truly magnificent, and everyone should go and see it if they get the chance! We wandered freely around in the temple, climbing the stupidly steep stairs - worse was to come though.

Next, our drivers took us to the ancient capital of Angkor Thom, where we saw our favourite temple, Bayon. The main feature of this is that all of the towers have 4 faces, facing the 4 points of the compass. But what made it even better was the hap-hazard way it's been built, creating a labyrinth of passageways.

After wandering around the rest of the capital, we moved onto Ta Keo which is an unfinished temple. The towers are squared off, with no decoration, and even steeper steps than before! Coming down them was quite frightening, but worth the effort for the fantastic view it afforded from the top!

Next, we went to Ta Prohm, which in my opinion was one of the more interesting temples as the Jungle has started to reclaim it. Trees are growing out of and on top of the buildings, creating an almost alien landscape within the temple.

We finished the day off, watching the sunset from the top of Phnom Bakheng - the only hill in the area. Sadly, it seemed most of the tourists in the area also watched the sunset.

The next day, we went further afield - and sitting on the back of a scooter for an hour on dirt tracks is very painful! We started with the waterfall at Kbal Spean, which mainly features some ancient carvings and butterflies (a lot of them!)

Next, we went to Banteay Srei, which is one of the smaller temples, but also the most intricately decorated and intact of them all. After lunch, we then moved onto East Mebon - sorry, but by this point I was starting to get templed out. Next came Neak Pean, which was different as it featured a shrine set in the centre of a resevoir, surrounded by 4 smaller resevoirs.

Our final temple was Preah Khan, which blew us away. First of all for it's shear scal and complexity, and for the state of the disrepair it's in. This one hasn't so much been claimed back by the jungle, but age is taking it's toll on the structures, making it a great place to wander around inside and get almost lost.

Siem Reap and the ruins are amazing, and I can't recommend going there enough!

Posted by Glug 23:31 Archived in Cambodia Tagged backpacking Comments (0)

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